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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.